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Posted by Sam Passenger on

Won’t copper or brass melt?

Copper has a melting point of around 2000 degrees Fahrenheit and brass is around 1700. Although this is significantly lower than steel, which melt at around 2700, steel will glow bright red at only about 900 degrees Fahrenheit. When was the last time the tip of your barrel was red hot? If you try to melt it, you probably can, but you will severely damage other parts of your rifle.

Aren’t copper and brass too soft?

Although copper and brass are much softer than steel, with proper care, they will last a significant amount of time. If you are the kind of person who likes to throw your rifle on the ground and smash it against tress, these materials might not be the best choice for you. However, if you keep your rifle securely in a cabinet or safe, transport it to and from the range in a padded case, and generally treat it with care, you will be just fine.

Won’t copper and brass tarnish?

Absolutely. Some people really like the look of the patina that develops on copper and brass. If you are one of these people, you are in luck. This look will be extremely easy to achieve. The corrosive nature of gunpowder will accelerate the development of the patina. If, however, you are not one of those people, fear not! With simple, regular cleaning, your new muzzle device will look as good as new. The important thing to keep in mind, just as mentioned above, is that gunpowder and its residue are extremely corrosive and can damage the finish in a short time. You must remove any residue as soon as possible after firing (which you should be doing anyway to protect the other components of that expensive, precision firearm that you own!). The best way to keep the finish looking new is with some type of acid. There are a number of fantastic acid-based cleaning solutions available, but regular household vinegar works just as well. A quick soak in vinegar followed by a scrub with a soft cloth will restore a bright shine. Make sure you follow this by rinsing in clean tap water, or the acid will etch the finish and make it look matte.

Why do you not recommend your product for SBR’s, rifle caliber pistols and fully automatic weapons?

For a couple of simple reasons: First – Safety! Both for the shooter and anyone in the immediate area. As barrel length gets shorter, perceived volume gets much louder. You will definitely want to double up on ear protection, if you really insist on this. You MUST also wear eye protection as muzzle blast is GREATLY intensified on short barrels. Secondly, the muzzle blast pressure is much higher, which will significantly shorten the useful life of your muzzle device. Unburned gunpowder has a sand-like consistency. It exits the end of the barrel at an EXTREMELY high rate of speed. This has a sand-blasting type effect. Over time, this will erode the metal of your muzzle device, requiring it to be replaced. This effect is significantly higher on shorter barrels or with high rates of fire. We do not warranty our products lifespan, as it is too dependent on how the product is used. We do not recommend our softer metal products in these situations. We have had reports of customers having good luck with our more durable materials on these types of setups (Titanium, Stainless, Carbon Steel).

How do I install my new muzzle device?

PLEASE – do not use a regular metal wrench to try to install your new product. It will severely damage the finish. We do not warranty any damage caused by not following this procedure. That being said, the best method is to use a strap wrench

If you do not have a strap wrench, a leather belt, old bicycle tire inner tube, or anything similar will work. Since our flash hiders are round, this is the only option. Flash hiders may be installed with or without a crush washer, but only need to be just over hand tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN – barrel threads are extremely fine and extremely shallow. They will strip VERY easily. Compensators must be installed with a crush washer or shim washer to properly align the exhaust ports. The three sides with openings point left, right and up, and the compensator should be level. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not twist from the muzzle end of the device. Your wrench must grip as close to the threaded end as possible to avoid damaging the device. You may use a metal wrench, if needed, but it must be padded to protect the finish. You may use a rag or similar between the wrench and compensator, but it must be folded over sufficiently to keep the wrench from scratching the finish.

Do not block or obscure the blast ports on muzzle devices. A large amount of energy is dispersed from these areas and this energy may damage anything in its path. Do not fire the weapon if anyone or anything is in line with the path of the blast ports. Always wear hearing and eye protection when using or in the vicinity of someone using a firearm. Shorter barrel lengths increase the intensity of the muzzle blast and also shorten the useful life of the device. Additional hearing protection may be required as perceived volume to the shooter increases as barrel length decreases.